Tourism rakes in $1.8b a year, but some locals say it is killing city's soul
No visitor can be oblivious for long to Malacca's pride in being a World Heritage Site. Right at the entrance to the historic old town, a lengthy proclamation is painted in huge letters on a wall.
'Welcome to Melaka, World Heritage City. Melaka and Georgetown, historic cities of the Straits of Malacca (Malaysia), being inscribed on July 7, 2008, Quebec, Canada, by Unesco'.
There is a reason for this pride. The Unesco listing has benefited Malacca tremendously, as it swiftly rekindled visitor interest in this tiny state that is rich in history. Tourist arrivals shot up by 23 per cent that year to 7.4 million, from six million in 2007, for both domestic and foreign visitors.
Arrivals reached almost nine million last year, with the state earning 4.4 billion ringgit (US$1.5 billion) from tourism. Malacca Tourism, Culture and Heritage Committee chairman Seet Har Cheow told The Straits Times that about 200,000 Singaporeans visited last year, making up the largest foreign tourist group.
That is not surprising, as Malacca is only a three-hour drive from Singapore and busloads arrive every weekend and during holidays. Chinese and Indonesian visitors also make up large numbers.
"Not too long ago, it was just a sleepy hollow. Today, Malacca is a favourite destination," Seet said.
The influx of tourists has given Malacca a new lease of life. The Malacca river - along which the first residents lived centuries ago - was once filthy but has been cleaned, at a cost of RM300 million.
Cruise boats now ferry thousands of tourists a day to view old warehouses and traditional Malay villages lining the banks. Mr Seet said the cruise has been a major hit, earning 6 million ringgit this year.
The Majestic Malacca luxury hotel by the river opened its doors in 2008 for well-heeled visitors who can afford its hefty rates. The hotel is in a white colonial mansion restored by the YTL group that is famed for its luxury hotels.
Many new stylish cafes have also opened in the centuries-old shophouses, refurbished to fuse their traditional charm with modern amenities.
Suzy Goh opened the Kocik Kitchen two years ago, after seeing thousands of tourists walk by her relative's house in Heeren Street every day.
The shophouse was turned into a restaurant but with its distinctive features, such as a massive Chinese altar taking up half the living room, left intact.
"It's like visiting grandma's place for dinner," Goh said. "About 60 per cent of our customers are Singaporeans."
Malacca even has an Art and Performance Festival in its second year now, ongoing until tomorrow, with a range of films, performances, exhibitions and workshops.
But some locals lament that their charming town is fast losing its soul to the gaudy trishaws, cruise boats and tacky souvenir stalls that have sprung up everywhere.
Colin Goh, 64, a retired civil servant whose Peranakan-Eurasian family has lived here for generations, said Malacca is becoming a tourist trap.
He said his cousin has to put up with food stalls outside his shophouse in Jonker Street every weekend when it becomes a night market for tourists. He added that few locals can afford to eat at the new cafes which charge 'Kuala Lumpur prices'.
"I can understand why everything is driven towards tourism. It's good for business," he said. But he regrets that tourism has become the be-all and end-all for Malacca.
He cited the Taming Sari revolving tower that was originally sited in the heritage zone two years ago as an example. It was moved elsewhere after excavations uncovered the ruins of a Dutch fort.
There are more of such tourism products to come. Malacca is already thinking of building Malaysia's largest aquarium as well as a train service to ferry visitors to the heritage site from a large carpark.
Still, tourists flock to the city because its heritage is still so evident in its buildings, food and people.
"Malacca is so preserved," said American tourist Joe Hutchence, 24.
Two Australian visitors, who wanted to be known only as Julie, 48, and Mary, 54, said they loved the historical architecture all around them.
That is good news for Malacca. It is on track to welcoming 10 million tourists by the end of this year, Seet said.
